@gabrielahearst

class="content__text" DIRECTOR’S CUT by @claracullen Autumn Winter 2023 Set design: Ricardo Bofill Taller de Arquitectura @bofillarquitectura Live performance by @sumbuck “The City”, Wave” and “We will dance again” composed by @s.t.meier Show Production: @bureaubetak Film Production: @bureaufuture Film Direction: @claracullen Music production: @daniloasueiro Communications: @prconsulting, @sciencemagic.inc Styling: #camillanickerson Casting @jesshallettcast Makeup: @farahomidi for @tataharper Hair: @hollismithhead

February 23, 2023

class="content__text" French Family Portrait @chloe

February 21, 2023

class="content__text" There are music GODS, and then there is PUPI. Making me Dance since 17! Not a DJ, an architect by training but gave his life to Music. He is a matter of National Pride for bringing excellence to Uruguay when the dice may not roll on your side. My favorite music nerd, my Music Director for Life, my FRIEND Danilo Astori Sueiro ( AKA DJ Pupi for a GH after party ) @daniloasueiro

February 21, 2023

class="content__text" Gracias Inma ❤️ for the Dream of being in your Cover @harpersbazaares with my beloved Leiva. You say it perfectly, definitely the US is better than just the ME. We get more powerful together ✨✨ "Definitivamente 'nosotros' es mucho más genial que 'yo'. Juntos somos capaces de crear una nueva realidad: diversa, especial, única. Una cosmogonía de colores, gente, valores y canciones que se mezclan entre si y se convierten en MAGIA" @inmajimenezbazaar Fotografía: @carlosdelareina Estilismo: @claudialaukamp Maquillaje y peluquería: @kleykafe Producción: @beverah

February 20, 2023

class="content__text" Just one of my favorite of all time @saskiadebrauw opening our show. “Bedankt” my dear for these two looks: L1- Black recycled double-face cashmere single-breasted tailored coat with pick stitch detail Ivory light weight cashmere button-down shirt Black sportswear wool trousers Black calf GH x Trickers Wing cap oxford L34-Ivory silk wool cady circle cut-out with custom gold hip shape hardware Ivory nappa strap with rose gold hardware heel

February 20, 2023

class="content__text" When the High Priestess @brandybschultz introduced me to the music of Legendary @felicebrothers my mind Blew Up with their Exquisite Poetry. I called pronto best friend and Music Director @daniloasueiro he had been a fan since 2009... We are so humbled that they agreed to play for us to celebrate our FW 23 Show. Delighted that we were able to dress them for the first time... All 📷 @bmei_photo

February 19, 2023

class="content__text" Thank you @voguerunway @nicolephelps “Recently I encountered a woman business owner with a serious Gabriela Hearst collection. Over the course of reporting a piece about her, she wore two of the designer’s knit dresses and admitted to having bought many others. She has a real designer crush. With long sleeves, high necklines, and midi lengths, Hearst’s dresses are the soul of discretion without being sexless, which is essential to their appeal. This season’s version is colorblocked in squares of red, yellow, and black bordered by white. The motif was inspired by Eileen Gray, an early 20th-century architect and furniture designer who was often overshadowed by her male peers. Hearst tends to nominate under-recognized women as seasonal muses—Gray spent her last 30 years living a quiet life. Then, decades after her death a chair of her design that belonged to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé sold for $28 million, the highest price ever fetched for a piece of modern furniture. There was a real connection between Gray’s vocabulary and Hearst’s today. The furniture designer’s lacquered wood screens provided the template for bags made from interlocking squares of leather. And a famous photo of Le Corbusier in the buff at Gray’s house E-1027 in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France, a large scar visible on his thigh, suggested the scarring effect seen on leather pieces. The slits cut into a burgundy trench flashed Mediterranean blue, while the ones on the burgundy strapless dress were fiery red. A pair of understated finale dresses with cut-outs on the sides from which metal panniers peeked out seemed to nod towards the chrome Gray used in her adjustable E-1027 table. She was the first to use the material, beating both Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe to the punch. That table looks utterly contemporary. Hearst was gesturing toward timelessness with this collection. It was rounded out with the minimal tailoring and robust cashmere knits for women and men that she’s known for, and a new collaboration with Tricker’s, the British shoemaker established in 1829. They’ll look smart with those knit midi dresses.”

February 19, 2023

class="content__text" When “La Ciudad en El Espacio” by @bofillarquitectura was going to be a reality as our set, it was obvious as I had had the privilege to have listened to the unpublished “The City” by @sumbuck (City = Ciudad ) that serendipitously that should be the sound for our FW23 show @s.t.meier had the generosity and courage to perform it live in a less than optimal acoustic setting. It was a dream to see everything that has inspired me been weaved together in 9 mins…our type of Mandalas. PS - All Dress in #gabrielahearst Hombres “Sumbuck; a slang found in the last pages of a good book, is the pen name of Taylor Meier. Here he curates a wide sonic palette, ever changing members and moods - all the songs about Love in one way or another. The songs chosen to accompany the runway show are from an unreleased record, to be finished early spring. “The City” has emerged as a talisman for the album and is one of the focus tacks for the show. The song is about collectiveness, recognizing poisons to the spirit, it’s about surrounding yourself with Love and lending it to those around you. The city has your back. There is a feel change towards the end, a slowness, and a pulse where we can breathe, and grasp these ideas for a little.”

February 18, 2023

class="content__text" Thank you @boothmoore and @wwd Gabriela Hearst has a passion for sharing the spotlight with women who have not gotten their due. For her fall collection, she was inspired by Eileen Gray, the Irish artist, architect and furniture designer who was a pioneer of the Modernist movement starting in the 1920s — and whose Dragon chair, owned by Yves Saint Laurent, sold for 20 million euros in 2009, setting a record at auction for a piece of 20th-century furniture. Gray had her own store in Paris named after an imaginary male owner called Jean Desert, which catered to Elsa Schiaparelli, Ezra Pound, James Joyce and other tastemakers. “She learned how to fly planes. She was a trained painter. She taught herself how to do lacquer. She taught herself how to do weaving. She had this furniture store. She had an arch rivalry with Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe….She was with all these guys who became more famous than her, she disappears for 30 years and then she’s rediscovered, which happens a lot with the women that I study, like, somebody else takes the ideas. But somehow we always try to make the story right again,” said Hearst, who was inspired by the austerity of Gray’s home and furniture designs, and her paintings, to embrace a more minimalist moment. The sentiment translated to menswear-inspired tailoring and outerwear in Hearst’s soft-touchable, recycled double face cashmere; napa leather shirt jackets and flared trousers, boucle knit pieces, all in a palette of red, white, chocolate brown, mustard yellow, cream and charcoal — colors found in Gray’s weavings. The designer’s continuing collaboration with women’s collective Manos del Uruguay produced an ivory cable turtleneck sweater and hand knit dress that could be stand ins for coats they were so lush. On the other end of the knit gauge spectrum, a striped pleated trench, button-down shirt and flared pant look was a refined, near weightless take on knit dressing. Like many designers here this week, Hearst worked a lot in leather, and her black napa artisanal puzzle pieced coat was next-level. Not forgetting dress up nights, silk cady cutout gowns in white or black had custom hardware molded to bare hips. ...

February 17, 2023

class="content__text" One of my favorite architects Ricardo Bofill passed away last year. Helped by the force that drives us, my dear @claracullen who shoots our shows introduced me to her brother-in-law @pablo_bofill. I am so humbled that they agreed to collaborate with us.Because only love for creation could let us have "La Ciudad en el Espacio' as our set. This impressive work made the show for us. Ricardo Bofill “The City in Space” a utopian idea that transformed all perceptual and design aesthetics and gave way to the "Now as Future" is at the heart of the @bofillarquitectura collaboration with #GabrielaHearst. “The stance of ideal architecture is to a certain extent one of rebellion, of disagreement with the way cities are planned. Utopian architects then create images of the future city, but since they lack a new work method they continue to comply with traditional rules. An anti-conventional system was therefore tried out that we regarded as effectiwhen it came to defining a formal hypothesis in the certainty that it could subsequently be executed." The synthesis of geometric and volumetric configurations that connected radicalism and Mediterranean housing traditions, was imagined as a structural matrix that agglutinates cubic cells and forming units, nuclei and bodies; that with the increase in density becomes more open, porous, aerated and svelte. Newness is the driving force behind this engaging design. Regardless of the medium, be it fashion or architecture, all design is a constant exploration of how the present can be pushed just a little bit further to create a novel experience, hence the connecting dots of this collaboration. "Ask yourself: what is the human being but a garment and what is the world but the living garment of God? If language is the expressive garment of thought, then clothes are the expressive garment of the body. Nature and life itself are but one garment woven and ever-weaving from the loom of time." Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus (1834) The materials used for the structure are from deadstock/ leftoverfrom previous projects. The structure itself will be reused by GH for a future installation. 📷 @bmei_photo Slide 10- Render

February 17, 2023

class="content__text" “El Trovador & La Musa” @harpersbazaares @leivaoficial_ @inmajimenezbazaar

February 16, 2023

class="content__text" Interrupting our fashion week programming because this love bomb is out. My "Amiguito" collaborator @leivaoficial_ in @harpersbazaares in two covers. This was a dream of ours. Gracias @inmajimenezbazaar for letting these “teenage“ dreamers play.. EL TROVADOR & LA MUSA La diseñadora Gabriela Hearst descubrió a Leiva buscando inspiración para una colección basada en Chavela Vargas. Hoy, su amistad no entiende de océanos ni de agendas y se alimenta, en lo personal y en lo laboral, de una profunda admiración mutua. Los reunimos en Madrid en su primera portada juntos demostrando que no hay llama creativa más fuerte y duradera que la que surge de la colaboración entre amigos. Gabriela Hearst (Uruguay, 1976) entra como un torbellino en el studio madrileño donde nos hemos citado. Enciende incienso y se encarga de poner la música. Suena de Bob Dylan a Beyoncé, y por supuesto los Stones. Su energía es envidiable, y eso que acaba de aterrizar de un viaje a Egipto donde ha asistido a la COP27, las conferencias sore el cambio climático. Su agenda es así: un día poniendo en pie un desfile con huella de carbono cero en Nueva York con su marca homónima, otro cerrando los detalles de su nueva colección para Chloé en París, otro luchando por salvar el mundo del destrozo humano y otro en Madrid para recoger el premio BAZAAR Women of the Year 2022 por su labor de concienciación medioambiental en la moda. El encargado de entregárselo esa noche fue su amigo, el cantante Leiva (Madrid, 1980), quien entra poco después que ella por la puerta para posar junto a su compañera de batallas artísticas. No es algo que él acostumbre hacer, el prestarse para editoriales de revistas de moda, pero lo cierto es que, si Gabriela -Gabi, como la llama- le dice ven, generalmente lo deja todo. Le pidió que actuara en su primer desfile como directora de Chloé en París unas semanas después de una operación de garganta, y se plantó delante del exigente público de la moda internacional a cantar Godzilla, y le pidió el pasado septiembre que saliera a desfilar para su marca en Nueva York. Por supuesto, lo hizo, aunque a ella le falta cumplir su parte del trato: vender merchandising en uno…”

February 16, 2023